The best wine bar in Lyon

That’s quite some claim and one that got us through the door when we visited back in February. We were staying in a hotel close by, and as is often the way when we stay in hotels, we didn’t need any more food. Well not a full evening meal anyway.

But, what to do of an evening? And this evening in particular was a pretty foul one, so wandering around wasn’t really an option. So that’s how we found ourselves spending our evening in La Cave Des Lyons in the old town, in Place Saint-Paul. We’d walked past it earlier in the day, without really noticing it, which sounds a bad thing, but I don’t think it really is. At that point in time, we were tourists seeing the sites, and hungry tourists at that, who were looking for breakfast.

Yes, after a fabulous meal in our hotel the night before, breakfast as soon as we got up wasn’t needed either. You’re right, this is almost unheard of, but Lyon isn’t a place where we went hungry. The food was plentiful and fantastic, and I seriously came home heavier after just a few days away, even though we walked near and a little bit further around its streets.

As you’d expect the wine bar had plenty of choice and through sheer good fortune and a fair bit of pointing we got ourselves a fairly decent glass of vino, actually a few. We’d hoped for a bottle but maybe that’s just an English thing. Settled into our spot just by the door, which gave us a perfect people spotting spot. The best sort of spot, I think. We could see the whole downstairs area of the bar, peek into the tiny kitchen (through the doorway at the end of the bar), monitor the stairs and even people walking past outside. Or as the evening went on, blow past.

It was turning into quite a foul night outside, the winds getting up and the rain starting again. We didn’t need much more to encourage us to stay put and have another glass. We also opted for food, but only a small amount. A cheeseboard to share. And just as well we shared, it was huge. It also came with a variety of accompaniments, some you’d expect, like nuts, dried fruit and such. But also some that I wasn’t expecting, including sliced banana, which also worried me slightly.

I have no photos of the food - again, too busy eating than photographing - one day I might remember, but I can’t promise that. But actually the banana weirdly worked. I’m not sure I’d add it to my cheeseboards through choice, but I’d probably try it again.

FOR THE RECORD WE DIDN’T POLISH ALL THESE OFF

So was it the best wine bar in Lyons? Quite possibly, though we only tried the one. I’d definitely be up for going back (at some point) to try here again, and some others for comparison. All in the name of research…

Just before Lockdown Loos

It’s been a while since I’ve had a Loo Series post, so as I’ve got one from just before lockdown, and because I’m lamenting my second cancelled hair appointment, I’m sharing it today. We’d popped to Norfolk in the middle of March as we thought that things were about to change, in fact they changed after the following weekend, so our timing was spot on. We’d gone out for dinner to the Rose & Crown in Snettisham, which was a lovely place and one we’d go back to, and which had been on my parents’ to visit list since they moved to Norfolk in the early 2000s, so it was good to unknowingly tick it off their list.

At the time I was three weeks into my haircut cycle, with an appointment booked at the start of April. That didn’t happen, and my appointment was rearranged for yesterday, which clearly didn’t happen either. So now it’s 11 weeks since my last haircut, which for a regular six-weeker is quite disconcerting, and it’s what I’m liking least about the lockdown. Which makes me sound quite vain, but as my hair grows out as well as down, I have a lot more hair than I’m used to - there’s a reason why I have short hair and have it cut regularly.

Of course I’m not the only one missing their hair appointment, which means when they do reopen appointments won’t be happening immediately either. That’s frustrating too, though I’m decided that I will be taking the first appointment I can, even if that’s during the day. I’ve considered letting MOH loose on my hair, not just the fluffy bits on the back of my neck, but then again I’m not sure he’s qualified. I’m not qualified to cut my fringe and thin the shorter side, and it doesn’t and hasn’t stopped me, but that’s me doing it to me, not him. I’m not sure he’d be so keen either.

But anyway, back to the loos as you can see the advice to wash your hands was clearly on display. While essential, they weren’t a patch on the other artwork. Plenty of red, now that’s much more my thing.

The pub was busy when we went, perhaps that’s usual, or perhaps everyone else was expecting the lockdown too. We sat in an area towards the back, which as we’d parked in the road at the front meant we had to weave our way through the whole building. It was worth it though, both the food, decor and service were great and it’s easy to see why they’ve won the awards they have.

And just to prove my point about the length of my hair, and so this becomes part of my lockdown story. Three weeks in to my haircut and my hair’s not even at my chin - it’s also a lot less grey! And excuse my face, I’ve no idea what or why I’m pulling the face, in my defence it’s the only one I have!

Here’s looking forward to being able to visit family, restaurants and, sorry mum and dad, having my hair cut!

Azulejos, hand painted tiles

Well, when in Portugal and you get the chance to visit a tile factory where they hand paint azulejos, of course the answer is yes. Especially when it’s just over the road from your hotel, which was how it happened on our walking holiday in Portugal last June.

And by factory, I don’t mean large and automated. Think more of a place for specialist crafts to take place, though they did have a shop and I was very tempted by the tile above, for no more reason than I liked it.

The ‘factory’ was among residential streets, where we returned later for dinner in a local restaurant, and was set away from the main part of the town. Both made us feel incredibly welcome, with our own tour of the workshop and an explanation of the process, which hasn’t changed vastly, as you’d expect with a traditional craft.

The designs created here, are all hand painted, and are stunning. They create the traditional designs, as well as modern designs and take in custom commissions from across the world for private and commercial customers.

On our visit we were encouraged to watch the tiles being painted, and it was great to see. The detail, and process was fascinating and we were shown every stage of the process by our hosts.

Who’d have thought that we’d have the chance to see such beautiful tiles being created? Certainly not me, but I’m so glad we did. We almost didn’t as we’d been out all day and on our feet again, but it was definitely worth it.