Fancy wallpaper and fabulous architecture at the Brighton Pavilion

Taking a day off work and heading to Brighton last week, my plan was to go into the Brighton Pavilion finally. It seemed a good plan for a December visit, as some indoor time at this time of year is always a good plan. As it turned out, it was another mild day but having a plan we decided there really wasn't any need to change it. We did see more of Brighton even venturing onto the pier where it was a bit blowy, but more on that another day.

Brighton was often a family Sunday afternoon trip and although I'd not been inside the pavilion before I've often wondered at its magical exterior. I knew it was built as King George IV's pleasure palace, but I knew little more of its history. That changed with this visit though and I learnt so much last week. It's the type of place that every time you visit you'll see something new - especially with the restoration work underway - and learn something new, or alternatively the type of place you could just admire and pretend it was your seaside retreat... Or all three!

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You wouldn't know from looking at the outside but it started as Marine Pavilion and much more of a modest villa. In 1815 John Nash was commissioned to transform it into the structure we see today. And it has what is essentially a cast iron frame around the original building which provides the structure and support for the minarets, domes and pinnacles which are its trademark. You wouldn't have thought that, now would you?

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And as with any building project it was equipped with state of the art (for the day) lighting, heating, sanitation and one of the most modern kitchens of its time. Well, if you're hosting lavish parties you'll need to provide lavish food I guess.

And you'll need somewhere lavish to entertain. Tick. Just look at the banqueting hall - it really is stunning.

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

There is so much to look at my eyes didn't know where to look first. Initially it was the blue Spode jars and lamp stands, which you can see on the left of the picture above. They are just as large as they look, and I think there were eight of them.

It wasn't long though before my eyes were drawn upwards to the chandelier and the decoration around it. By Robert Jones, the chandelier is 30 feet high and weighs one ton, it was lit by oil lamps and candles creating an ‘artificial day’ - I think it'd be something you'd never get bored of.

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

We wandered through the remainder of the downstairs room often remembering to close our mouths from all the wow-ing they were doing. Thinking that we were getting to grips with the ornate interiors we headed upstairs. Well, let's just say we were wrong there - just look at the South Gallery below.

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

It was here that we stopped and chatted with one of the room guides. I was struck by the pattern on the blue wallpaper with its geometric design that wouldn't look out of place in the wallpaper catalogues of today. I was curious about the design as it looked to have an almost 3D effect. The room guide told us that we weren't that far wrong as each of the pieces of the geometric pattern was added afterwards, not by paint as we'd first thought but stuck on (but clearly in a more craftsmanlike way!)

Once again though I was struck by the modernity of the patterns used, but also by the mix of patterns. Just look at the carpet. And the glass panel in the ceiling, and even the painted panels just below that. Every surface is patterned. I know our homes are much smaller than these palaces, but even so I think we should all be just a bit braver with our decorations.

My absolute favourite rooms were these Bow rooms, with their yellow patterned wallpapers. The same wallpaper design is used downstairs in red, but somehow the yellow quite literally shone. And once again that carpet, which runs through the upstairs room.

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

It seems I am in good company as the wallpaper with dragons, phoenixes and birds of paradise was also George IV's favoured design. These rooms have been restored to their original design and the wallpaper has been reproduced from original fragments and printed in the traditional way.

It was this wallpaper that MOH thought was similar to our bedroom curtains. There are similarities I'll admit but sadly our bedroom curtains aren't anywhere near as extravagant.

We moved through the upstairs rooms and into Queen Victoria's apartment with the Queen's bedroom, the Maid's room and the closet which reflect their appearance between 1837 and 1845. It was Victoria who sold the pavilion to the town of Brighton in 1850 as it didn't provide her with sufficient space or privacy...

I was clearly having a yellow day as I loved the wallpaper in this room. I would quite happily have this in my house today - I'm not sure where, but I think I could find a place for it. Isn't it gorgeous?

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

Photo credit: Royal Pavilion and Museums, Brighton and Hove

So already my senses were zinging, and I'd already learnt so much more about this fantastical looking palace. And then with a walk around the Exotic Creatures temporary exhibition in the Prince Regent Gallery we learnt even more. It was here I learnt of the Royal connection to London Zoo in Regents Park. A connection I'd not made before, but obvious now. It seemed a diplomatic gift in 1827 of a living giraffe most likely prompted the early zoo.  I know, what to do hey when you're gifted an giraffe? Happens all the time...

So what a visit. I hadn't expected to learn quite so much or to be quite so amazed by its interiors, or to discover once again how the designs from this most opulent of palaces was still influencing pattern today.  

Once outside I couldn't help but look up at the underneath of the the dome just outside the entrance hall. It's definitely a grand statement of an entrance and exquisitely detailed.

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We left, as you do via the gift shop where my yellow attraction continued. Everything I was drawn to was yellow and we very nearly left with a tray, yellow of course but I resisted as the tray we have does what a tray needs to perfectly well. It's only fault it seems is that it wasn't yellow, so not even I could discard it on such a whim. Sadly.

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So if you're in Brighton and want to be amazed by some of the most opulent interiors, then a visit to the Brighton Pavilion is just the thing. You can find opening hours and more visiting information on their website, where you also get to admire more lovely yellowness too!

 

With thanks to the Royal Pavilion for the use of their interiors photos.

 

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Turning wrapping paper into cards

Remember my visit to the Geffrye museum, where I bought this stunning notebook? Well I also bought this gorgeous wrapping paper there too, with absolutely no intention of using it for wrapping paper, despite how lovely it would be to receive a gift wrapped in this.

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I had something else in mind entirely. 

But before I get onto that let me share with you that folded wrapping paper is one of the things I dislike immensely. It's a small thing but one that really annoys me. I didn't want this one rolled either as it would be too awkward to carry and continue to take pictures of the museum (there'll be another post on this at some point), I asked the man in the shop if I could fold the paper myself.

He looked a little bemused by my request but agreed nonetheless and carried on taking my card payment. And I set to work folding it neatly so that none of the "seed packets" had a fold in. Suddenly I was aware I was being watched and I looked up to see the man in the shop watching intently, looking even more bemused than before.

Worried that I'd offended him somehow I asked if everything was ok. Thankfully it was but he said he'd never seen someone fold wrapping paper with such care and precision. I imagine he thought me a right nutter, so I explained that I planned to make some cards with them. I'm not sure this did anything to change his opinion of me, but I was happy that the folds were where I wanted them to be and ready for the project I had in mind.

So far I've only made a few into cards, but there's plenty more to come I'm sure.

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Each has a slightly different feel, which I'm happy with. I've experimented with texture on the Watercress and Peas card by adding black and cream tulle as a background. And on the Okra card I've sponged one corner for a bit more interest. I'm pleased with how each of them have turned out, and now I just need to be brave enough to part with them when the time comes!

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And you never know I may get all inventive when I eventually send them and add either a few seeds or perhaps a recipe. I'm sure there'd be more that I could add too.  I'd love to know what you think and if you have ideas for complementary inclusions.

The Reading Residence

The Tibetan Peace Garden at the Imperial War Museum

This week my Jury Service has resumed and I've been back in Southwark; there's still a lot of sitting around but that means I'm even more determined to get out and about over lunch. Usually we have an hour and a half for lunch (I know!) so yesterday I headed off towards the Imperial War Museum. My original intention was to find some green space to sit and eat my lunch and if there was time to pop into the museum.

It didn't work out that way though because soon after I entered the grounds I stumbled upon this Tibetan Peace Garden. And what a beauty it is.

Standing in the centre of the garden, by the black Kilkenny limestone and the bronze cast of the Kalachakra Mandala I had a great view looking towards the Language Pillar. It's design is based on the Sho Pillar in front of the Potala Palace in Lhasa and is made from Portland stone. More on this later though.

The bronze cast above is considered by the Dalai Lama to be a vehicle for world peace and it's believed it has the power to grant its blessings on all who see it. I'll let you know if it works!

In the paving around the mandala are the classic Buddhist images of the "Eight Auspicious Symbols"

Around the edge of the gardens are four contemporary sculptures carved in Portland stone showing the elements Air, Fire, Earth and Water - the fifth element of Space is represented by the open arena.

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The plants in the garden originate from Tibet and the Himalayan regions.

The inscription on the Language Pillar - shown in four languages - reads

"WE HUMAN BEINGS ARE PASSING THROUGH A CRUCIAL PERIOD IN OUR DEVELOPMENT.

CONFLICT & MISTRUST HAVE PLAGUED THE PAST CENTURY WHICH HAS BROUGHT IMMEASURABLE HUMAN SUFFERING & ENVIRONMENTAL DESTRUCTION.

IT IS IN THE INTERESTS OF ALL OF US ON THIS PLANET THAT WE MAKE A JOINT EFFORT TO TURN THE NEXT CENTURY INTO AN ERA OF PEACE & HARMONY.

MAY THIS PEACE GARDEN BECOME A MONUMENT TO THE COURAGE OF THE TIBETAN PEOPLE & THIER COMMITMENT TO PEACE.

MAY IT REMAIN AS A SYMBOL TO REMIND US THAT HUMAN SURVIVAL DEPENDS ON LIVING IN HARMONY & ON ALWAYS CHOOSING THE PATH OF NON-VIOLENCE IN RESOLVING OUR DIFFERENCES."

- THE XIV DALAI LAMA OF TIBET, 13 MAY 1999

Walking into the garden from the language pillar you see a circular bronze image set in Kilkenny stone. The two Tibetan syllables in the centre mean Virtue and Foundation and it is the logo of the Tibet Foundation, who commissioned the garden.

Around the outer perimeter of the garden there's a low Kilkenny stone wall, which doubled up as a bench and a lunch spot for me and many workers from the local area.

Around the mandala are eight low York stone contemplation seats, which represent the Noble Eightfold Path of right view, thought, speech, livelihood, effort, mindfulness and concentration.

It was a great spot for lunch and it really did have a quiet and peaceful aura to it, which given that my visit took place over lunch during school holidays where there were plenty of children enjoying clambering over the large naval guns outside the museum's entrance, was no mean feat!