Inside the barn and farmhouse at River Cottage HQ

I was possibly a little bit too excited by my trip to River Cottage HQ, but I probably wasn't the only one. When I received the invite earlier in the year I knew I'd be going, and I just needed to work out the small matter of logistics. I'm in London, River Cottage HQ is in Devon, that's do-able in a day, right?

Well it turned out it was. A very long day, but do-able. I timed my arrival pretty well arriving just before the parking spaces started to run out and went to wait for my tractor ride down to the farm. I hadn't appreciated beforehand that River Cottage HQ was in a valley, but soon did as our tractor made the slow and steep (and bumpy) descent. 

At the bottom the first stop was the barn and a welcome drink, and a chance to take a look round. I snuck out for a look around while the light was, well not as dark as it could be at this time of year. And because I really couldn't wait any longer. 

I quickly realised I knew very little about what goes on a River Cottage HQ, I mean I knew the bits from the telly-box, and the garden but there's a whole lot more to it than that. 

For example, did you know that you could book a dining experience there? Or that it's the base for their Cookery and Chef's School? Or that they hold cookery courses there which have an emphasis on local, seasonal produce with a nose-to-tail approach. No me neither, but obviously I do now!

I also learnt that Hugh and his team have a pretty space, practice what they preach - and when I say preach, I mean in a non-preachy way, and that they can grow weirder shaped squash and gourds than me. But as you know I'm up for a challenge so maybe next year I'll try and top them in the knobbliest squash league of growing, who knows.

Yes that's the knobbliest squash I was referring to. And look, sweet peas. It was a week into November and there were still sweet peas growing happily. That's what having a farm in a Devon valley does for you.

And having a barn to dry flowers in makes for the prettiest of decorations. 

Over in the farmhouse, which sssshh! don't tell anyone, isn't actually called River Cottage, but Park Farm, there was a lovely homely feel. There were more flowers drying, this time on the windowsill, lots of kitchen paraphernalia which while artfully placed looked like it would actually be used, a lovely warming fire and a rather charming picture of a cockerel. 

Plus The Kitchen. The fireplace is huge, and so is the table. But actually the room didn't feel as big as I imagined it would. Although I imagine with a film crew in, it feels even smaller. 

No sign of Hugh though, which for his sake was probably a good thing.

For me the kitchen was the iconic room and so grinning like a goon I stood behind the table and posed for pictures Hugh-style, but without the carcass of meat that no doubt Hugh would have in his picture.  From the table there was a view out to the garden - more from there another day - and the rain. But to be honest, the rain wasn't going to stop me enjoying myself today.

It was great to get to have a look around the farmhouse, it's a working farm not a tourist attraction and as such you need to book to be welcome. The food we ate back in the barn - that's most likely another post in itself - was delicious, and as I was there with a lot of food bloggers I had lots of reminders to take pictures before digging into my plate.

And yes London to Devon and back to London is just about do-able in a day. It's a long day, but worth it. The weather on the drive home was awful and not even the unfolding American election results on the radio could hold my attention, but to be honest they were competing with mastering a new sport of aqua-planing on the motorway, just as well I had it mostly to myself. 

And if like me you don't manage the four hour drive without a break, then on the way back there's quite a nice well used, but dark layby near Farnham which served me well for a 20 minute nana-nap before I set off on the final leg of my trek home, arriving back just before 3.30am. A long day but one I wouldn't have missed, thanks to River Cottage HQ, Foodies100 and HIBS100 for inviting me.

* This is a collaborative post, but all views and opinions are my own

A fine farm for florists and regal roses

Today I'm taking you to another part of the Chateau de Chenonceau estate, and a part you might not have heard of before, the farm. Yes I wasn't expecting to find one here either, and it was a lovely discovery. Especially as it was so pretty. And so French. We approached past the duck pond who, as you'd expect living so close to such a grand chateau also had some rather plush duck accommodation.

The farm is a group of 16th century buildings and includes Catherine de' Medici's stables. One of the buildings houses a floral workshop where two florists work all year round creating the stunning flower arrangements which I've already shared. And it provides easy access to the vegetable and flower gardens nearby. But before we go there, just look at this honeysuckle I spotted. It's huge, and was lovely and fragrant when we visited, but growing in a way - like a cordon - that I'd not seen before.

Moving through one of the farm's arches, I got my first glimpse of the productive part of the garden. And I wasn't surprised at how orderly it was. I loved the grass between the crops - which is a similar approach I have in my allotment, it's just that in my allotment the grass is almost knee high!

The cordoned fruit trees were in fruit too. And I promise when I took the picture below I was still on the right side of the path.

There's twelve square plots each of them edged with apple trees and Queen Elizabeth rosebushes, hence the regal roses reference in the title. And lots of alliteration throughout this post. The whole space covers more than a hectare and like many of the potagers we visited is pretty as well as functional. 

Throughout the garden there was added interest, with wicker ornaments and metal wells. The sunflowers were growing tall and strong. And straight. Take a look at how thick their stems are. 

And we were there when the peonies were out. They are still a June favourite of mine and were part of my wedding bouquet too. I always wonder at how they stay upright with their heavy blooms, and it seems they don't always. I think if I were a peony I'd be like this too.

Actually if I was a peony I'd be more like these fuschia ones!

What struck me about the roses - apart from the sheer volume of bushes in flower - was the supports they were growing up and against. Most were growing against quite humble wire fencing. But how it transformed it.

In other parts of the garden there were bushes of lilies growing like I've never seen before. But if you've a house the size of Chenonceau to keep in fresh flower arrangements then it makes sense. These also look like they've got their own irrigation system too.

The heritage greenhouses are also hosts to roses, these ones were the palest of peach which complemented the stonework so well.

WHAT A PLACE TO TAKE A REST

Close to the greenhouses I spotted an extra pot similar to those around the wall in Diane de Poitiers garden, although here it was planted with some spare santolini, rather than geraniums. Well, I assume it was spare. I guess using as much as they do in the formal gardens, it's always worth having some spare. 

And it's a plant that is going on my plant list. I've been stalking it for a while so next year, is the year. Remind me if I forget!

Before I go, a puzzle. In the squash bed there were several of these wicker baskets on a stick (that's my name for them) and I've no idea what they're for. We've considered all sorts, but each of our suggestions seem just a little too odd, but maybe our ideas aren't quite as far fetched as we think. 

If you know why the ten gardeners, who keep the gardens at Chenonceau so well kept, have "planted" these wicker baskets, please leave me a comment and let me know. And if you don't know for sure what they're for, I'd love to hear some of your wacky suggestions too.

Soon we'll be back on the bikes and back on the Loire a Velo cycle path heading towards Tours, which was the last stop - and biggest town - on our trip. I've mixed feelings about Tours. I love a big town, but had been enjoying the smaller countryfied towns and villages. I was pleased to get to Tours as I was keen to visit Villandry, but equally being in Tours and visiting Villandry meant our trip would soon be over, and that was less pleasing. But all that's for another day, until then let me know about those wicker baskets on sticks!

Discovering the story behind the Baltic Exchange Gallery

Just a short post from me today, and another one that I've been meaning to share for a week or two. A couple of weeks ago I told you of my bonkers week and of my lunchtime visit to the National Maritime Museum in Greenwich. My plan for that lunchtime was to scout out inside places to spend my lunch hours, and to check out the cafe there too.

I decided to take in one of the galleries while I was there, but soon found myself diverted towards the Baltic Exchange Gallery. It's not something I'd seen before, either in person or on the signposts so I was intrigued to see what I'd find there. I never expected it to be this.

Wow.

I was mesmerised. So much so that I spent my lunch hour in this relatively small space taking in each of the windows, and the story of how they'd painstakingly been restored after they were damaged by a terrorist bomb in the early nineties. I think partly the fascination was I remembered that bomb as I was working in the City at the time. I remember the devastation and the shock of the event, but had no idea these windows existed, their story, how much they were damaged and how much work went into piecing them back together.

That all changed in that hour though.

The information boards alongside these windows were excellent and told their story in a compelling way. I can sometimes flit through a museum and its exhibits, but these held my interest.  So much so that I had no time to fit in a visit to the cafe, so I think that tells you all you need to know.

The windows were commissioned shortly after the First World War and formed part of a memorial to the sixty members of Baltic Exchange staff who lost their lives during the war. They were unveiled in 1922 and consisted of a half-dome with five large windows below it. 

The information board told me "the subject is heroic and likens the British Empire to the Roman Empire." 

Above and below are excerpts of the two outer panels of the dome which names the major battles of the First World War.

The half-dome is over three metres in height and is just fabulous. Standing in the middle you get the most wonderful sense of history and my photo below hardly does it justice. If you're in Greenwich, then you really should make time to see this as however I describe this, I know I won't be able to do it justice.

While I stood learning about the restoration work I was completely oblivious to The Virtue Windows behind me. Originally these would have been under the panels of the half-dome. And you may have already worked it out but they're named for the Virtues of Hope, Fortitude, Justice, Truth and Faith, which the Romans established as qualities that all humans should aspire to.

What a way to spend a lunchtime.