The Biba Story exhibition at Zandra Rhodes’ Fashion & Textile museum was definitely worth a visit, and told Barbara Hulanicki’s story through fashion illustrations and some of the wonderful outfits, but it also claimed that Biba was the first world’s lifestyle label, which is quite a claim.
Today our lives are full to the brim of brands which aim to encompass every part of our life, and as with anything some stay around while others come and go. But imagine trailblazing in that area and the reactions you’d get.
As the show notes said ‘Barbara Hulanicki began by ‘dressing the girl in the street; by 1973 she had fashioned Biba into a lifestyle’. The first non-clothing Biba product was a 1967 diary, which included recommendations for other places of interest for Biba customers to visit.
The Biba department store on Kensington High Street had departments for clothes, furnishings, wallpapers and cosmetics all in the distinctive Biba colour palette. By 1973 you could eat, sleep and breathe Biba, from newborn babies to adult, with products for the home and garden - and in-store dining and food for the home too.
And it was great to see some of these items on display.
The display started off as you might expect - a vanity case, some tights and then there were the diaries and address books. An ashtray and matches, plus packs of cards and some lights too - the silver coloured one in the centre caught my eye, reminding me of a lamp I had. On reflection its nothing like this lamp, mine was white ceramic with a frosted glass sphere in front of the female holding up her skirt. I thought it was super elegant, and kept it for many years even though the frosted glass sphere shattered at some point along the way.
Biba was clearly an aspirational brand, just look at those soups: Consommé, Lobster, Vichyssoise, Shark’s Fin, Bird’s Nest and Real Turtle - no mock turtles here! Even the names of those soups transport me back to my childhood, not that I think we ever ate any of those, or maybe we did and it was described by my parents as ‘chicken soup’!
And what decadent jars for the pulses - yellow split peas, chickpeas, red lentils and haricot beans, condiments chutneys, including sweet spiced walnuts.
The booze is also of its time isn’t it - cherry, red currant and blackberry wines (and more which I can’t quite make the labels out), plus of course roasted & salted mixed nuts, or pistachios - all very ‘To the Manor Born’.
But it was the eyeshadow palette that looked most familiar to me, and clearly I’ve never owned one so perhaps mum had one - but as well as the makeup, there’s brushes, creams and potions I’m sure for every conceivable use.
What an absolute discovery of an exhibition, and what a time to experience the start of lifestyle brands as we’re oh so familiar with today.
