The kitchens at Belvoir Castle

I don’t know about you, but I find kitchens in large stately homes fascinating, and those in castles even more so. Above stairs at Belvoir was fantastic, but below stairs even more so - maybe it’s because I know my place, or maybe its the industriousness of them, but I know they’re always worth a look. The old kitchen at Belvoir Castle was at the centre of a series of rooms which includes larders, stores and rooms for the senior kitchen staff.

a look along the kitchen with a wooden sink, freestanding wooden table and copper saucepans hanging along the wall

In this kitchen there were thirty plus staff preparing meals for the family, guests and the staff. It doesn’t bear to think how much food and drink was prepared in this space with its coal fired ranges and glorious copper pots and pans. And let’s not even think about keeping it or those pans absolutely gleaming.

the ovens along one side of the kitchen with an open fire with a large copper 'hood'

The simplicity of the wooden lead-lined sink on tiled pillars tell its own story - and can most probably tell us many, many stories of its own.

a wooden lead lined sink on tiled pillars with two taps out of the tiled splashback
copper pans hanging on a brown wall
large copper urns in the background, in the foreground a large wooden kitchen table with 'fake' food - fruit, strawberry tarts

One of the other rooms that was open to visit was The Pastry, which had a dual purpose. For what it’s named after - there’s a marble slab set below the window, which I don’t seem to have captured, but that was designed to provide a cool, dry and calm area where the cook could prepare delicate pastries and more I’m sure.

a separate side room with a table laid with blue/white crockery.  A dresser in the background with more crockery, storage jars and bottles

The room was also used as a space for the cook and kitchenmaids as a dining room and rest room, and it looks much more like the country kitchens we’re more familiar with - complete with some metal signs and tins that I’d be very happy to own myself.

a metal lyons tea sign and a breakfast biscuit tin on top of the cupboards
a close up of the end of the table laid with a place setting, and the wooden carver chair pulled out the dresser with blue/white crockery displayed in a symmetrical pattern in the background

Seeing these spaces empty is as I said before fascinating, and I bet even my most realistic visualisations are a patch on what life in kitchens like these were really like. I think I much prefer being able to imagine what it might be like, rather than experiencing them first hand - cooking meals for more than two people can be stressful enough, especially as there’s been really little opportunity to do that over the past few years.

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A jam packed week off

I said last week was a quiet week on my blog as we were away, well this week has been quiet too and we’ve been back at work. I’ll admit to enjoying time away from my laptop in my week off and so while this week I’ve been back on the laptop during the day, I’ve stayed away during the evenings too, picking up my crochet instead.

And also knowing where to start, and what to post from the many, many photos I’ve taken. So many photos, so many gardens and historic houses - and such a good time - and so, this post has a bit of everything. A kind of whistle stop tour of what I’ve been up to.

We started in Norfolk visiting some of my favourite places, including the shops at Creake Abbey and the historic Georgian town of Holt - it made a lovely change to wander around shops, though still wearing masks.

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A great day in Holt ended with a bit of a downer when a stone thrown up by a passing van hit the windscreen with an almighty crack. And it was quite a crack, no chip in sight and quite a shock. On reflection a crack is way better than a chip, as that meant a new windscreen rather than a repaired one. Thankfully the crack kept outside of my vision for driving, and the insurance and replacement were easy to navigate with all the necessary recalibrating done in a single visit once we were back home. Even there they realised that after having the car for less than a month, I probably didn’t need to replace the wipers!

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It was definitely a night to opt for fish and chips and we headed off to Eric’s for the first time. We ended up with double fish and chips each, and more than we could eat - and we couldn’t resist trying the black pudding fritter, which is exactly what you’re thinking - black pudding in batter. I’d eat it again - obviously - but probably not as a side order to cod and chips.

Up next was our holiday cottage in Lincolnshire, part of the Walled Gardens on the Easton Estate - and it’s the first holiday cottage we had with its own library - a small space with a chandelier, but a library no less.

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It also had one of the best equipped kitchens we’ve experienced, and best of all it provided direct access to the walled gardens which were available for us to visit outside of their usual opening hours, and it was really special to have such a lovely space to ourselves.

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This was a sign that I wasn’t expecting to see - thankfully the giraffes were statues.

We got out and about a lot in the few days we were in Lincolnshire and first on my list was Barnsdale Gardens, which was the Gardener’s World home of legendary presenter Geoff Hamilton. There were 38 gardens there, so plenty of inspiration - and while I wasn’t a Gardener’s World viewer when he was a presenter it was a great place to visit. I’ll be sharing some of the gardens here, but somehow I’ve lost some of the photos I took, but even so there’s still plenty to share.

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What is always special is the chance to look around the nursery and growing spaces, and this is the heucheras at Barnsdale - not lettuces as MOH first thought (though they do look a little lettuce-like from a distance).

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That evening we headed back out into the Walled Gardens this time exploring the Cottage Garden and the Pickery - great name isn’t it? - and discovered this most amazing bark, I promise you it’s a real, living tree and not a sculpture.

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Another of the places I was keen to visit was Belvoir Castle - a few years ago when we cycled between Grantham, Melton Mowbray and Newark we spied it on the hill top in the distance, and had it marked as a future place to visit. It didn’t disappoint, the interiors were stunning - from the displays of rifles and swords as you entered, the vibrancy of the wall coverings and the grandiose rooms - I was ready to move in.

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We also spent some time walking around the gardens, including the formal rose garden, which considering the gardens are on many levels was a lot of up and down, but definitely worth it.

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But we weren’t done with visiting historic houses just yet - our next stop was the National Trust’s Belton House, where it was easy to pick up on a greyhound theme, including on the door plate and on the weather vane on the roof.

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The orangery in the grounds was just as spectacular, and I think I’ll need to add an orangery as a requirement to my next house! (Some chance, I know).

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With our week almost at an end we managed to squeeze in a visit to nearby Stamford, another Georgian town - no prizes for guessing the type of architecture that MOH and I are drawn to.

I told you we packed a lot in, and now you know why it was so hard to choose just one part of an action-packed week away from home.

PoCoLo

Cycling towards the home of the pork pie

Well, what other motivation could a girl need?

We headed into Grantham and parked in the station car park, once the bikes were offloaded and set up and MOH had almost recovered from the cost of four days parking (£44 if you're interested) we were ready for the off. 

25 MILES FROM GRANTHAM TO MELTON MOWBRAY

25 MILES FROM GRANTHAM TO MELTON MOWBRAY

Our route today used the National Cycle Routes 15 and 64 and it was nice to cycle alongside the busy road as we left Grantham and headed towards the towpath. 

We hadn't been on the towpath for long before we spotted these swans building a nest, they were quite mesmerising to watch as they intently pulled the reeds as they wanted them.

NESTING SWANS
ALONG THE TOWPATH
SCENIC TOWPATH

Although the towpath was quite bumpy to cycle along in places it was easy to see it's beauty even on the overcast day.  Where had the sun that was beating down on our backs in the car park gone?  

I'd spotted these markers soon after we joined the towpath but it took me a few to read them fully as we cycled past. Then once I had, and with the backdrop of the pretty hedgerow I knew that it was time for a photo stop. We were heading towards the Trent, but not today, first we were taking a trip to Melton Mowbray and the home of the pork pie.

MARKER FROM THE TRENT
BRIDGES OVER THE CANAL

We knew that at some point we'd need to cross the canal and head left towards our destination, and we knew we weren't far off that. But first there was time to stop and admire the lock. MOH said he'd not seen a lock working before, which I was shocked by - not that I've massive waterways experience but I do remember going on a boat trip on the Thames with my nan many years ago and marvelling as we went through the lock at Teddington. 

But anyway, this one at Woolsthorpe was quite photogenic.

WOOLSTHORPE TOP LOCK
WOOLSTHORPE LOCK
WOOLSTHORPE LOCK

As we crossed and headed away from the canal we got our first glimpse of Belvoir Castle, high above the Vale of Belvoir. 

HILLTOP BELVOIR CASTLE

Beautiful isn't it?

You know what a vale means don't you? Yes, hills. Because what goes down, must also go up... or something like that anyway!

This section of our route was through rolling hills and on more than one occasion I wondered why I'd chosen this route, and then I remembered the pies so carried on.  Hills still aren't my favourite and I managed most of them - albeit slowly - unless I mucked up my gear change and changed up instead of down, not a smart move.

At the top of one hill I looked right and spotted a pub. Result, especially as it was lunchtime. We were in Branston and it didn't take much to convince MOH that we should stop for lunch and a pint. So we did.

THE WHEEL INN BRANSTON
THE WHEEL INN CAR PARK SIGN

While he was inside ordering food and buying some local beer, I had a wander around with the camera. It really was a pretty spot and I was quite taken with the brick outbuilding as you'll see from my photos.  

OUTBUILDINGS
MAHONIA
GRAPE HYACINTHS
SHED

The food here was good - we shared a hot pork and apple sandwich and chips. I'd say forget the chips and have a sandwich each, it was stunning, oh and the crackling, so so tasty.  And then on a second wander I spotted these barrels and along with the tiled roof I thought they'd make a fab shot.

Back on the bikes we set off along quiet country lanes again, still going up and down hills with picturesque views. At one point our route took us around the edge of a field where the five sheep - two black, three white - ran towards us (do sheep run?) and then escorted us around the boundaries of their enclosure. They were probably after food, but it gave us plenty of giggles and later I wished I'd taken a picture.

It was all downhill into Melton Mowbray and that was welcome. Somehow I'd imagined a small-ish pretty village, so the bustling market town was quite a surprise. It wasn't long before we navigated our way through the daily market and found ourselves outside here, where I did the only thing I could think of and bought a pie for tomorrow's lunch.

Ye Olde Pork Pie Shoppe Melton Mowbray

Having had a quick look around the town we set off to find our hotel. We knew it was on the outskirts of town as the theme for the day had been up follows down neither of us were surprised to find ourselves cycling up towards Scalford and its Manor Hotel. It had one of those long sweeping gravel drives, which look and feel impressive by car. Let me tell you, it's less impressive on a bike they're hard work to cycle on!

With our bikes secured and our panniers unhooked it was time to relax and prepare for tomorrow's cycle which was set to be our longest cycle of this trip.  We'd had a good day though, we'd cycled twenty five miles through some scenic countryside, eaten a fantastic lunch and tasted some fine local ale, spotted Belvoir castle and bought a pie to eat the next day. 

 

Next time: Cycling on to Newark-on-Trent and finding our Farm Stay