The Stepping Stones walk at Box Hill

A couple of weekends ago I headed over to Box Hill in Surrey with MOH. The plan was for him to cycle on some of the roads on the route of the Prudential Ride100, so off we went with his bike strapped to the back of the car. We parked in the National Trust car park near the Visitor Centre, him readying himself for the ride and me looking for the start of the Stepping Stones walk. I'd chosen this walk over cycling up Box Hill because I remembered just how steep Box Hill was from my childhood visits.  And because I'm still not that big on going up hills on my bike!

The walk starts just outside the visitor centre and is clearly signposted throughout and you're quickly at the Salomons Memorial viewpoint and these fantastic views.

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LEITH HILL, SIX MILES IN THE DISTANCE

LEITH HILL, SIX MILES IN THE DISTANCE

The viewpoint was built to commemorate Leopold Salomons who gave the original 230 acres of Box Hill to the National Trust in 1914 and it overlooks Box Hill's famous panoramic view to the south of over twenty five miles.

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Then it was time to start my descent taking the 275 steps down through the Yew wood. Some of the trees on Box Hill are more than a thousand years old.  There were plenty of gnarled branches and twisted trunks, dens and trees seemingly pointing the way.

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Shortly after the steps I reached a fork in the path; the left took me towards the stepping stones and the right-hand path leads to the footbridge over the River Mole. As this was named the Stepping Stones walk I headed towards those.

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I warily crossed the river using the stepping stones, after a false start when a group of people appeared behind me. Knowing that I might take a while to cross - as sometimes my legs don't work when they need to swing over water - I stepped back and let them go ahead.

I made it across without dipping my toes into the river and admired the reflections of the trees on the water.

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I followed the path along the river, my legs pleased that we were back on flat ground and soon I entered the Burford Meadow with its complete change of scenery.

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At the end of the meadow the walk passes for a short while along the path of the A24 until the Burford Bridge Hotel where I took a small path just past the hotel with this view.

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Yeap, the only way was up!  The walk avoids the steps on the way up and I'll admit at times the walk up was tough going. But I took plenty of opportunities to stop and admire the views around me, including up to where I was heading and back from where I'd started.

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At the ridge I joined the white chalk path, which continued uphill albeit at a much gentler incline.

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The walk ends with a visit to the Old Fort before heading back to the Visitor Centre. I'll share my pictures and some history of the Old Fort in another post soon.

This was a great walk which reintroduced me to the beauty and hills of Box Hill. At two miles it was easily do-able in the hour and a half that the walk leaflet suggested. And I think the walk up Box Hill was harder work than cycling as when I met up with MOH he deemed cycling up the Zig Zag Road "not too bad!"

My Travel Monkey

The Gothic and Fairytale castles at Schwangau

Having mentioned the castles in the first day of cycling post today I'm sharing more about them and pictures from our visit, although be warned there are quite a few photos. We toured both castles on a guided audio tour with about forty other people, each tour ran on the hour and lasted 35 minutes. They were informative and each dose of information was about the right length to hold your attention. I imagine the behaviours of the tour group would be quiet funny to observe though; each section of the audio guide was started by the tour guide accompanying us as we walked into the new area - it was like we were being zapped in every room.

Anyway first up was the Gothic Hohenschwangau castle (pronounced as it's spelt), which the guide book warned us was bright yellow. Well I'm not sure if it was the weather, or just that I've got a vivid imagination but it didn't appear that bright to me. This was the childhood home of King Ludwig II and was built by his father King Max II in the 1830s, although its origins date back to the 12th century as a medieval fortress.  And it certainly looked like you expect a castle to look.

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The mist further up the mountain added to the allure of this castle where King Ludwig II grew up with his brother having minimal contact with his parents and other children, and it's said that the romantic design had a lasting effect on him. The young king found solace in opera, theatre and literature and it was here at the age of 15 where he had his first impressionable meeting with Richard Wagner, whose works had a huge influence on him.

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Despite the weather the views towards the Forggensee were amazing, sadly there wasn't much to see when you looked towards the Newschwanstein, and the telescope didn't get much use the day we visited!

LOOKING ACROSS TO THE FORGGENSEE

LOOKING ACROSS TO THE FORGGENSEE

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After our tour of the castle we took some time to explore the castle gardens with its fountains of lions and swans and I was slightly more excited than I should have been when I spotted the circular hedges with yet another swan fountain.  

[If you're a regular reader you'll know I've got a bit of thing for hedges and have shared photos of the ones in Stiffkey, Norfolk and some closer to home at the Thames Barrier Park]

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On a dry day the gardens would have been the perfect spot to sit and have our packed lunch, and without doubt though on a better day it would have been much busier!  Before we left we peeked down to the car park and the picturesque town of Schwangau some 200metres below.

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As we had some time before our tour of the Neuschwanstein Castle we decided to leave Hohenschwangau via the alternative route and headed down this ramp.

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Beautiful hey?

We found ourselves in some woodland with the most enchanting view for our picnic. Yes we were sitting there in waterproofs, sitting on plastic bags and now wearing our cycling helmets to keep dry, but it was absolutely perfect. There was no one around, we had pretzels, cheese and some cherries and this view all to ourselves.

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After lunch and a pause to enjoy our surroundings we headed back down towards Schwangau and up towards the castle of Neuschwanstein, which is the epitome of the fairy tale castle. But first we wandered through the pretty town and enjoyed the lake we'd watched while we ate at ground level.

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It was a steep walk up to Neuschwanstein. We were booked on the last tour of the day and didn't want to miss it so as we realised just how far up the hill it was our pace quickened, a lot! We were quite out of puff when we reached the castle, but we were there with three minutes to spare and had a chance to sit down and catch our breath.

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Our first view of Neuschwanstein, and it was big!

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It's also perched on what the guidebook says is an "impossible ledge" and overlooks the lakes below with a backdrop of mountains and forests - we didn't get to see much of that, but it was definitely an imposing and beautiful sight.  Neuschwanstein Castle was the inspiration for Disney's world famous Doppelgänger and it's an image that just shouts Bavaria - and you don't get more fairytale than this!

It's the castle that encouraged me to book our trip. 

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So it was a shame that our visit didn't take place on a nicer day, but it was a visit I wasn't going to miss because of the weather. Later on in our holiday we got another glimpse of the castles, but I'll save that for when we get to it. Both castles were fantastic and should definitely be on your list if you visit Bavaria.

Work on building King Ludwig's new castle - and his dream palace - started in 1869 and the initial work which took 17 years was aborted after his death in 1886, when only rooms on the ground, third and fourth floors had been completed. In the castle there are many tributes to Wagner's operas and to the medieval German poet Walter von der Vogelweide.

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The masterpiece and final room of the tour is the Sangersaal or Minstrel's Gallery where concerts still take place every year in September. I wasn't able to take pictures inside either of the castles, but they are amazing.  With both castles visited it was time to head back to our bikes parked by the Tourist Office in Schwangau and cycle the 3km or so back to our hotel.  

Thankfully it was a relatively flat cycle back and we'd got through our first day of cycling ok - and we'd covered 45.4km (although I think about 5k of that was on foot around Schwangau) - and nothing ached too much. We were a bit damp from the weather and were (almost) ready to do it all again the next day, but first we needed another schnitzel and a dark beer in the hotel's restaurant and another early(ish) night being serenaded by the choral school next door to the hotel.

Next time I'll share more from Day 2 and our 39km cycle to a new hotel in Bad Bayersoien

 

My Travel Monkey


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Our World Tuesday

Picking up our hire bikes and setting off...

Getting to Füssen took us while. Our journey started early one Monday morning with a crack of dawn flight from Gatwick which was delayed. That meant we'd missed our train from Munich's Haubtbanhof (central) station by a matter of minutes, which wasn't so bad really given that the delay had doubled the flight time!

We arrived in Füssen - our first base - two hours later than expected and eventually found our hotel after a march around the town with suitcases in tow. We had directions but they didn't make much sense to our tired selves. After a couple of dunkel (dark) beers and a schnitzel it was time for bed, in preparation for collecting our hire bikes and the 34km circular route planned for day 1.  Actually I was struggling to keep my eyes open so bed was the only option, and no matter that it was just before 9pm (and with the time change) - we were on holiday, and that day that was how we rolled!

THE 34KM CIRCULAR ROUTE FOR DAY 1'S RIDE

THE 34KM CIRCULAR ROUTE FOR DAY 1'S RIDE

The next morning after a hearty breakfast - well we needed fuel for the ride - we were ready to hunt down the cycle hire shop, pick up our hire bikes and set off on our first cycle.  

Oh and it was raining. I'm not sure I ordered that.

The plan for the day was a circular route clockwise around the shore of the Forggensee, with views of the Alps. The highlight of the day for me was the visits to Hohenschwangau castle, the Gothic castle and nearby Neushwanstein castle with its fairy-tale turrets.

The castles were just a few kilometres from our base at Füssen so the ride really was just a very long winded route there - but a beautiful one no less, even in the wet.

So these are our bikes - and we were to get to know them very well over the next six days.

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The Germans are a tall bunch and when we collected the bikes I needed my saddle lowered. And then lowered some more. In fact they lowered it three times for me before I could even get on the bike and they were totally bemused by my shortness - I'm 5ft 2ish. And then bemused some more when I had them raise the handle bars, but I was comfortable and it was soon obvious that I wouldn't be needing the gel saddle cover I'd bough as a precaution.  I also had an influx of gears which was a novelty - on my Pendleton at home I have just seven gears, on the hire bike I had twenty seven. Once I worked out that the levers on each handlebar worked in opposite ways I was fine... I think!

The bikes came with a pannier each, a small repair kit, a pump and a map holder which I quickly swapped over to MOH's bike thinking that having the directions would give him something to keep him occupied and as most likely he'd be riding in front, it made sense.

We booked the cycling part of our holiday with Inntravel, the slow holiday people and they provide cycling notes and step-by-step directions so that's one thing we didn't have to worry about. They also arrange for your luggage to be transported between hotels, which is a major bonus as it means I can follow my normal packing regime (aka chuck it in just in case) without worrying how I'm going to transport it. We've done a couple of walking holidays with them before - in the South West of France and our first visit to the Alentejo region in Portugal - and have had a great time on both of those trips.

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We left Füssen and headed for the Forggensee and all was going well, or so we thought. MOH stopped as he thought we'd been this way before, at this point I hadn't noticed as I think I was still working out that the gear levers worked in opposite directions but he seemed pretty convinced. And it turned out he was right, as once we were heading back out of Füssen again it all looked familiar. It turned out that we'd turned left too early which the second time round was all too obvious.  

Hmm, the first of our detours. I was beginning to wonder if moving the map holder was such a good idea after all.

We reached the lake and it's huge - 12km long and 3km wide. It's hard to believe that this lake is usually empty from the middle of October to the start of June, especially so as our visit was on June 9th! It acts as a flood prevention method for the River Lech in this natural basin and the artificial lake was first created in 1954. Later on in our ride we crossed the hydro-electric dam at Roßhaubten, but more of that later.

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It was a misty day as you can see from the photos above - and that was fine for our first cycle as we were both rather wary of the 32 degree temperature we'd seen on the weather forecasts the week before.  

I quickly discovered that cycling is not as accommodating as walking for taking photos, and I was conscious that if I stopped to take as many photos as I wanted to then we could be cycling back to our hotel in the dark. I found though, that like walking photo stops are a good way to catch your breath, especially if you time them right.

So it was with pure good luck that our first stop of the day was by these logs...

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These are I'm afraid the first of many stacked log shots from our Bavarian trip, they're just so pretty and I'm still fascinated by how neatly they're stacked.  It seemed everywhere you looked there were logs being stacked, whatever their size.

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The chalet-style houses too are just postcard perfect, this one had the added interest of iron sculptures at the roadside so it was just asking to be photographed.

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Even though it was misty, the views across the Forggensee were stunning and while I can only imagine what they'd be like on a clearer day, I don't think I'd be disappointed.

As we approached the northern end of the lake we started to see these Roman centurion totem poles, and it wasn't until a little further on that we realised their significance. We were cycling along the Via Claudia Augusta cycle route which is a route across the Alps and follows an ancient Roman road.

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As well as the totem centurions there was a small sculpture park which we had a quick wander around before climbing back onto the bikes and heading towards the dam at Roßhaupten.

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The dam holds 650,000 m3 of water, which is a lot of water. Completed in 1954 it's one of Germany's largest dams and is 41 metres (or 134 ft) high. Given it's significance we decided to pose with our bikes:

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And I couldn't help but smile at this sign

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The next section of the ride was mostly on cycle paths alongside the road with the lake out of view. It also had the most hills and while they weren't massively steep - actually one of them was - it wasn't my favourite part of the ride. Our agreement with hills is that I'll see MOH at the top, which means we're both free to go at our own pace - it also means if I want to stop I can and usually that goes undetected! 

I was thinking about a stop when I spotted this snail in front of me - it was huge, the size of snails that usually come on MOH's plate when we're in France. So that was it, it was being photographed and it really did sum up #aslowmoment for me.

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The hill kept going on and on, but the corner was in sight. Imagine then my disappointment when at the corner it turned and went up even more. I was done, and off the bike and walking the steepest part.  A water break and a photo stop at the top, with the promise from MOH that it was all down hill from now on... I almost believed him too, though most of it had to be downhill, surely.

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As we cycled towards Schwangau it rained a bit more, though thankfully not a huge downpour - but even so when we arrived we were slightly on the damp side. We'd bought advance tickets that morning in the hotel to visit both castles and set about getting ourselves on a tour as soon as we arrived. As it turned out we had a short wait but found ourselves a pretty German cafe for some traditional Apfel Strudel and a coffee - the bonus was we got a window seat and were able to use the radiator to dry ourselves off and warm-up. Sometimes I'm real class y'know!

I'll share more of our visit to the Castles in my next Bavarian post, but as this post was about the cycle I'll finish with some stats:

Scheduled cycle distance: 34km
Actual distance recorded: 45.4km
Cumulative distance recorded: 45.4km
Number of detours: 1 (of about 3km)
Number of km walked around Schwangau and the castles: c5km
Number of hills walked (instead of cycled): 1
Number of Apfel Strudels consumed: just 1... sadly!