52 Cookbooks 50: Venison pie

In our house pie is a bit of a thing. Every time I ask MOH what we should have for tea, pie is usually the answer so when I asked this time and got the usual answer, I thought why not?  I had some diced venison in the freezer from a recent butchers shop and thought it would make a great pie. All I needed was a recipe, so thinking that Valentine Warner would be a good bet I headed for his What to Eat Now book, and I wasn't disappointed. 

I like any cook that calls themselves greedy, I think it's a good sign of loving the food they make and their passion shines through, it certainly does for him and I loved his first couple of series on the BBC. 

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I had most of the ingredients, or ones that could be easily substituted and in the introduction of the recipe Val says that when he's holed up in the country he likes to use simple ingredients as "in the most remote village shops asking for cumin or olive oil can get you the same look as wearing a leotard in the high street."  I've not tried either but I suspect we've all been to places where we know this to be true!

This is a slow recipe - the meat is cooked slowly before it goes anywhere near pastry and is totally worth it, although if you were short of time you could have this as a casserole or even just add a puff pastry square. I had time so I went with the pie.

I started by frying the onions in some beef dripping (from the beef stock I made last week, see 52 Cookbooks 49: Beef stock) until they were soft and brown. Then with it off the heat I added some flour and English mustard powder and stirred this together before adding the sliced carrots and diced venison. Val explains that any attempt at pre-browning venison makes it clench like a fist. The I added half a bottle of Guinness (substituted for dark ale), half a tablespoon of soft brown sugar and a tablespoon and a half of malt vinegar. In went a "heavy grating" of nutmeg, thyme, pepper but no salt along with something I've not added to a savoury pie before, a ginger biscuit. The recipe said to grate the biscuit, but I suspect you could guess my reaction to that! So crumbled and crushed made do.

Then after adding a cartouche - a circle of grease proof paper -  it went into the oven on low for an hour and a half.

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When it was cooked I added salt as the recipe said, although probably not as much as it said and transferred the contents to pie dishes as I was making individual pies. Val says to use a deep dish as using a shallow wide one will cause the pastry to sag in the middle and it may cause it to be soggy. 

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The puff pastry is rolled out - I opted for packet rather than making rough puff pastry, one day perhaps I should try it, but not today! With pastry rolled out and placed on top of the pies, it was time for crimping. I went old-school and used a fork and then egg-washed the pies. In the recipe Val says now's the time to "fashion any pastry motif suitable to the occasion" and add it on top. 

Now you might be wondering why I opted for numbers, well partly because they were easy to do but mostly because using a letter wouldn't have helped - here it'd've been S for Stephanie and Steve and... yes S for spare...  so not much use!

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They went back into a hotter oven for just over thirty minutes and looked like this when they came out. I've no idea what happened to the two, but somehow it seems to have flipped over into an S. 

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The verdict

- There is absolutely nothing wrong with pie at all, and this one is a very good pie!

- I'd definitely make this again and keep some in the freezer for those days when only pie will do. It'd also make a good meal to share with friends.  

- Our number 3 pie is waiting in the freezer ready to be eaten. It's a case though of who'll crack first and eat it when the other is out for the evening. Luckily for me, MOHs darts season starts again in January... 

- Oh and that ginger biscuit, well it dissolved and to be honest I wouldn't have known that biscuits had been added! 

52 Cookbooks 49: Beef stock

This may not sound too exciting but sadly it was for me! I spotted some large bones in the butcher's window this week and on discovering they were marrowbones I was sold. Making stock is relatively easy, but it takes a while.  Although I knew the basics - bones, veg, water & simmer - I thought I'd check to see what my cookbooks had to say. The first one I turned to was Meat by Hugh Fearnley-Whitingstall - I've realised that despite being a big meat lover and being lucky enough to have a fab butchers around the corner this is a cookbook that is much underused!  I didn't need to look any further and found the advice I needed right here - thanks Hugh!

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The question to answer first was whether or not to roast my bones. Hugh likes to have a mixture of raw and cooked bones for his stock to as he says "have the best of both worlds." He also makes it in vast quantities - and much larger than I ever could here at home. But the butcher recommended roasting them for 20-30 minutes...

A large bag of bones

A large bag of bones

In the end I decided to roast them. They filled my roasting tray and while they were just about in a single layer some of them were upright! I discovered later the advantage of roasting them - some lovely beef fat, which is now in a tub in the fridge and will be very handy for roasting potatoes and parsnips in. 

Once the bones were cooled they went into the saucepan - actually I had two saucepans on the go, I really must get myself a larger pan this year, it'll make stock and chutneys so much easier to make! I added some carrots and onion quarters. I omitted the celery as I always seem to end up composting what I don't use. Some peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves and a dried red chilli also went in, along with as much boiling water as I could get in but leaving enough room for it to boil.  

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Once they'd reached boiling point, I was able to get the lids on and then they simmered for as long as I could leave them, which turned out to be about five hours. 

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I let these cool overnight and then set about removing the layer of fat from the top of the pans and then the vegetables and bones. This wasn't so easy as it had set. So each saucepan went back on the hob to warm gently to help this. I also used one of those fat separator jugs (which I wouldn't be without) and poured the now liquid stock into this through a sieve. 

I ended up with a litre and a half of stock, which I've frozen in sizes I'll use in cooking. That may not sound like much for the hours involved but each of these boxes is concentrated stock, which I'll let down as I use it. So not bad really - all this for £4 and some elapsed time. 

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The verdict

- I really must get a bigger saucepan!

- Although this took some time to do, the smells from the roasting and while the stock were simmering were great and I felt very industrious and virtuous. The actual effort involved is very little.  

- I'd make stock again, but it's not something I'd want to do every week - I'm not that patient really! 

- I'm looking forward to using these over the coming months in the right recipes and it'll save me buying those pouches of stock which almost always seem to split on their way to me! 

52 Cookbooks 48: Celeriac & bacon soup

This week I've chosen a celeriac and bacon soup which is in The Kitchen Diaries II (it's also available on The Guardian website too). I'd bought a celeriac and bacon and it was a case of finding a recipe to match - I was pretty sure that these were a good if not standard matching - I found way more celeriac and apple recipes - so I was pretty confident of finding a recipe. And I did.  Nigel Slater's recipes always make me smile as there's always some room for leeway - I mean, how do I know that my interpretation of a "thick slice of butter" is similar enough?  I'm banking on the fact I cook enough to know what feels right. 

Unusually I (or rather we) prepared and cooked this recipe one evening to take for lunch the next day. And it was cooked alongside our tea that evening so a times it was a bit frantic in the kitchen. MOH was complaining of being cold and said it was alright for me as I was in a nice warm kitchen. At which point he was roped in, merely to warm him up!

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So with the diced onions softening and the bacon frying, it was time to tackle the celeriac. Nigel says to peel these and roughly grate them. Peeling no problem, grating - well I'd contemplated using the food processor but I only have a fine grating attachment so I was in two minds. Then remembering MOH was cold... what better than grating some celeriac to warm him up?  

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So with no escape clause he started grating. By hand. He hadn't realised just how much celeriac there was and was quickly bored and to be fair running out of bowl for the newly grated vegetable.  What I hadn't anticipated was that "roughly grate" was code for "spray roughly grated celeriac around your whole kitchen" - however as it was MOH that was grating, then he quickly volunteered himself for a second job clearing up too!  And he was much less cold by now too - so win, win!

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With most of the celeriac in the pan along with some thyme, salt, some chicken stock and water the soup simmered for thirty minutes before I added some whole grain mustard and chopped parsley. 

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At this stage I let it cool - and we ate our tea - which was handy as I'm not keen on adding hot soups to the food processor. I find that some sauces/soups - especially tomato-based ones and anything with turmeric in tend to stain the mixing bowl and it's worse when it's hot liquid, I don't know why.  Although this had neither of those I didn't blitz it until it was cool. And then only half of it, before returning it to the pan. Then just before bed a portion went into this microwaveable soup mug and the rest went into freezer containers ready for future lunches.  

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The verdict

- Next time I'll remember to use the food processor, I may even have remembered to buy a rough grating attachment. It'd definitely be worth it. 

- Blending half of the soup worked well. It left some texture but also added a smoothness.  Nigel says you can add cream to this soup, we didn't and didn't find that we needed it.

 - This soup is deceivingly filling, which is a good thing!  It also freezes well and we got five portions from it. It's definitely being made again at some point. Thanks Nigel!